History of Tea

The discovery of tea has been shrouded in myth and uncertainty. Much of the appeal of tea today stems from exotic wonderment.

The Emperor's Discovery

2737 BC marks the birth of tea. Emperor Shen Nung was in his garden, probably meandering, sniffing flowers and such things, while drinking a customary cup of boiling water when a leaf from a nearby bush drifted into his cup. Instead of fishing out the leaf and pouring a new cup of hot water, curiosity got the better of him and he decided to try it. The Emperor was so delighted by the infusion that he instantly declared it refreshing and medicinal.

Shen Nung was quite a busy chap fulfilling numerous illustrious pursuits. He founded the beginnings of Chinese herbal medicine and wrote the "Pen ts'ao", an early medical text. It is known that tea began its history as a medicinal beverage, thus Shen Nung's involvement is understandable. Shen Nung is also credited with inventing the plough and introducing animal husbandry to his people. His name literally translates as divine husbandman.

Unfortunately, there is no historical record of this Emperor. There is, however, record of a hilltribe called the Shennong and, more than likely, this tribe of industrious individuals solved several problems, utilized and recorded gathered information and techniques and impressed their neighbours to such a degree to be spoken of collectively as "Emperor".

Legends & Early References

In later years, the Taoist philosopher Lao Tse, while on his Great Western Journey in the mid sixth century BC, was offered a bowl of tea by a student on his way through the Szechwan province. This story is often presented as further proof of tea's cradle being in the Szechwan district. But more importantly, it established an early standard of etiquette, that of the presentation of tea as hospitality.

Meanwhile in India, the story of the beginning of tea is romanticized considerably. It is said that Prince Siddhartha had fallen asleep amidst a vow of meditation. He was so disgusted with himself that he tore off his eyelids and threw them to the ground. Amazingly, a shrub grew from his discarded eyelids, a tea plant, with the properties of mental clarity that would become legendary. Japan has a similar legend, only the main participant is Bodhidharma or Dharuma.

Whether any of the above can be verified or not, one man, a contemporary of Prince Siddhartha (circa 500 BC), wrote, "Who can say that tea is bitter? It is sweet as the shepherd's purse". This individual must have had some association with the beverage, and, in fact, the writer was Confucius.

Early Chinese History

The first reliable reference to Tea is in an ancient Chinese dictionary around 350 AD. Described primarily as a medicinal beverage, the liquor was prepared by boiling raw green leaves in kettles with water, a process that was common in southwest China amongst the hillmen. Boiling water killed bacteria and other impurities helping to prevent illness. This version of Tea was most likely very bitter and unpleasant.

Around the 5th century, another Chinese dictionary described the infusion of processed Tea leaves. It involved pressing the leaves into cakes which were roasted, pounded and then broken up into little pieces. To make an infusion the pieces were placed in a china pot. Boiling water was poured over the tea and then, to improve the flavour, ginger, onions and orange were added.

By the end of the 5th century, Tea had become an article of trade for which Turkish traders began to barter around the Mongolian border. At this time, Tea was still drunk primarily as a medicinal herb.

The T'ang Dynasty (618-907 AD)

During the T'ang Dynasty, tea shrugs off its medicinal robes completely, becoming a beverage of distinction and refreshment. It was celebrated within the arts. Whether poetry or pottery, the enthusiasm for tea was exhibited exuberantly. Prior to this period there was much confusion surrounding the Chinese character for tea which may also have referred to sow-thistle or even common grass. All was settled, finally, during the T'ang Dynasty when Tea finally received its own character, ch'a.

New methods of Tea manufacturing also developed during this period. The most common preparation of tea was to pound the leaves, shaping and pressing them into molds then drying them over heat, producing a Tea brick. These Tea bricks were used as currency in remote areas of China.

By 780, Tea was important enough to be taxed. That same year, a ten volume work dedicated exclusively to Tea was written — Ch'a Ching (The Classic of Tea), by Lu Yu. Lu Yu melded Tea and Taoism. His writing reflects the spirit of the times while giving Tea a ritualistic essence that perseveres to this day, allowing Tea to maintain its sense of peace, harmony and balance.

Lu T'ung, a T'ang poet, wrote: "I am in no way interested in Immortality, but only in the taste of tea."

Tea Reaches Europe

The first European to write about tea was a Portuguese Jesuit Father named Jasper de Cruz who was visiting China as a missionary in 1560. Although the Portuguese were the first to be introduced to tea as a culture, it was the Dutch who first introduced tea to Europe as a commercial product. Dutch traders brought tea back around 1610.

Tea came to England by way of a Portuguese princess, Catherine de Braganza, who became the wife of Charles II in 1662. When she arrived at the English court, she brought with her, as part of her dowry, a chest of Chinese tea. However, it was more than likely that tea in the English court was already available.

With the marriage of Charles II and Catherine de Braganza, tea was celebrated in poetry and literature as "the cup that cheers" and the "health-giving China drink" (a phrase that was shortened to chai by many cultures).

British Tea Culture

The British East India Company established trade with China throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, making tea increasingly available in England. However, tea remained expensive due to heavy taxation and the monopoly held by the East India Company.

In the early 1800s, Anna, wife of the seventh Duke of Bedford, created the "Afternoon Tea" to "avoid the sinking feeling" that plagued her between the two planned meals of the day, breakfast, and dinner at eight. Since the servants were off duty during the middle of the day, lunch was quite light, so when the servants returned at 5:00pm, Anna began ordering Tea and cakes.

This little ritual which may have started as a semi-secret affair, was soon extended to her friends and the craving began a whole new social penchant. Afternoon gossiping had been legitimized and formalized. As was the etiquette, this ritual spawned all the social trappings. There had to be the right utensils, appropriate food and the correct presentation.

Tea Comes to India & Ceylon

The British, with an eye toward independence from the Chinese, began seeking an alternative source of tea. Sir Joseph Banks, who had been busy rediscovering Australia with Captain Cook, proclaimed India suitable for the cultivation of tea plants.

In 1834, the Assam plant was discovered growing wild in India. Charles Bruce worked at his plantation alongside Chinese experts to cultivate these plants. Four years later, during 1838, he produced and shipped to London twelve chests of tea which were received with great fanfare at auction in January 1839. Later that same year the Assam Company was founded.

Until the 1870's, coffee was the predominant crop in Ceylon. When, in 1870, the single crop economy of coffee was wiped out by a blight, planters like James Taylor were ready to move into tea production. He had not only successfully cultivated tea plants, but went on to invent a machine to roll the leaves. Within 20 years, the single-crop coffee economy became a single crop Tea economy.

Tea in America

At the time of the 1904 St. Louis World Fair, Americans primarily drank green tea. An Englishman, Richard Blechynden, attempted to introduce America to the new Ceylon & India black tea, but at the time of the fair there was a heat wave and the idea of tasting hot cups of tea was not well received.

After several days of frustration and failure, a desperate Richard Blechynden poured his tea over ice, to try to induce the sweltering fair-goers to sample his tea. Iced tea became the most popular thirst quencher of the fair. Though he did not “discover” Iced Tea, this was already being consumed in colonial times, Blechynden certainly sensationalized the beverage.

Four years later, during 1908, a New York City Tea Importer named Thomas Sullivan decided that there had to be a better, less expensive way to send samples to his various clients. Instead of forwarding the customary tin with several ounces of tea, Sullivan placed smaller amounts of tea in small silk purses and forwarded these to his clients. The merchants were impressed with this neat, measured and self-straining bag and began to order the "tea bags" from Sullivan.

Tea Around the World

The Trans-Siberian Railroad was completed in 1900 and caravan tea ceased to exist. One might say that Russians tasted tea for the first time, again. The price of tea in Russia had slowly become accessible during the late 1700's, and had enjoyed a growth of consumption amongst a large part of the population already. The onset of the railroad made the price of tea accessible to just about anybody. Consequently tea, along with vodka, often in the same glass, has become the national drink.

The spread of this most wonderful elixir of life, as the early Chinese Taoist liked to call it, is due in large part to the methodical and sometimes ruthless British colonial merchant. It is often said that as the Romans planted Vineyards wherever they conquered and roamed, likewise, the British have subsequently taken tea to every corner of the world that they have touched.

In fact, over forty countries from Azerbaijan to Italy produce tea to some extent, all contributing to tea's position as the number one beverage throughout the world after water.